The FOB is Back

April 29, 2023

Hello from Harpers Ferry, West Virginia -- mile 1026 for us north-bounders and the sentimental midpoint of the AT.

Back to the Trail: Scared @%*#less about how it's going to go, Apr 25

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters, the governing body of this magnificent path, is located in Harpers Ferry. Mathematically speaking, the official midpoint lies just south of Pine Grove Furnace State Park, Pennsylvania, about another 70 miles from here. Harpers Ferry is a special place -- cool beyond my ability to describe. Mountain town, confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers, rich Civil War history, the AT, and dare I say a foamer’s delight. "What is a foamer?" asked Pam… well, it’s a derogatory term railroaders use to describe weirdos like this hiker. We foam at the mouth each time we see, hear, or smell a train. Brother-in-law Ken, a career railroader, is likely nodding his head in Lachine QC as he reads this.

NS or CSX... once a foamer, always a foamer! April 28, 2023

Shenandoah River, Harpers Ferry WV, April 28, 2023

A taste of Harpers Ferry. Really cool town! April 29, 2023

I literally ran here yesterday (12.6 miles) because the weather was nasty, only stopping to snap a photo of a gorgeous Eastern Box Turtle fellow hiker Tea Time had spotted, and to chat with Mark (trail name for now: Freedom), a peach of a guy from just north of Kansas City, MO. Mark is out doing a shakedown hike -- testing gear for a Thru he is planning in a few years.

Eastern Box Turtle spotted by Cup of Tea, April 28, 2023

The night before, I, along with 4 other hikers, just happened upon the Blackburn Center, a hiker oasis at the bottom of a series of switchbacks. Run by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club who maintains a MASSIVE chunk of this trail, the Blackburn Center will be burned in my memory for a very long time. I was greeted by Amelia, who along with hubby Adam, are the caretakers. Amelia gave me a ginger ale and a chocolate, and told me to help myself to potable water, power to charge my phone and battery pack, an outdoor shower if I wished, a tent pad!!!, or a spot in the hiker cabin. “This place is for hikers” smiled Amelia. The cost you ask? Voluntary donation.

Blackburn Center, Potomac A.T. Club, April 27, 2023

There I met Dad Dog (recently retired MD from DC). “I got to do some cool stuff and I think I helped people along the way… but this," he said referring to the AT, "I want to do this…” He had that look in his eyes and I liked him instantly. (Incidentally, Dad Dog met Weatherman who I mentioned in an earlier post, as did Margaret Anne who I met on Easter Sunday. Weatherman is one quintessential AT character! Everyone out here should be lucky enough to meet that dude). Dad Dog introduced me to his daughter, Rainbow Warrior. Short Rib and Tea Time, who I'd eaten lunch with earlier that day, also showed up at the Center. I stayed up way past my bedtime (between 7:00 and 7:30 out here!) because I was captivated by these hikers. As a career introvert, I was swept up by their kindness and hiker tales. Then Adam walked over to wish us goodnight. “Sleep tight” he said. “My mom used to say that when she tucked us kids in,” said me. “Mine too” he replied. The next morning, in nasty weather, there were hugs and photos, and we all went off on our own journeys. Dad Dog said “It’s all about the people.” Wise and lovely man!

Front Royal

There were some ups to convalescing for 7 excruciating days in that town… such as:

Jimmy-the-Dive-Motel-Maintenace-Guy. My first day at the Baymont Inn, I locked myself IN my room, but was able to escape using my knife. Promptly forgot about the door 'cause I was in a twist over things medical, my insurance provider, and my… personality. Left the room, likely to get ice for the leg. Went back to room. Locked OUT. Hobble to front desk. “No sweat, we’ll move you to another room. I’ll get Jimmy to meet you up there.” Enter Jimmy, burley and expressionless. He tries his master swipe card. No go. So, like straight out of the movies, he kicks in the door! “Problem solved,” mutters Jimmy as he lumbers off to his next “maintenance” task. So I text my 5 month old grandson Arthur (via dad Alex’s phone) 'cause I had to tell someone, “Just like in the cop shows, he kicked the flippin' door in!” 

Mom. I was there so long, I started calling a senior employee "Mom", 'cause all the other staff did. One day at the Stuff Yer Face breakfast bar (I was there 7 days straight at 6am, as I wasn’t that busy), another guest comes in, walks back and forth three or four times surveying the food (he was old and slow, so it took a while), then mutters, “How come you never have bacon?” and leaves. They had sausage every morning, which was fine by me. Once he’s gone, Mom says “He asks that same damn question every day.” So next morning, I ask “You have any bacon?” and with a big smile, Mom tells me to “Go eff myself.” I knew right then that I was one of the team, albeit financing the payroll, not drawing from it. A delightful young mom named Ashley prepared breakfast 5 of 7 days and she was a joy to chat with.

Ashley... one of the bright spots of my extended stay in Front Royal, Apr. 25

Christy. Christy drives the Front Royal Trolley, a town bus decorated to look like an old time trolley. I've had some real scary walks down mountain roadways to get to my resupply boxes. The road to Front Royal was the scariest by far -- paved US Route 522, winding, about 3 plus miles with no shoulders. Had I not had the good fortune to get scooped at the trailhead by Christy, I am confident she would have been my hit-and-run driver, the one to end, not only my hike, but my life. Hard-breaking, stoplight-running, are-we-gonna-roll-this-thing?, pedestrians scrambling, corner-cutting, etc, etc. Other passengers rolling their eyes with death grips on the seat handles, Christy opening her side window to verbally harass locals. I think her driving freaked her out a bit too, because every time we were ahead of schedule (always!), she had to get off the trolley to have a smoke. When she took me back to the trailhead on the 25th, she told me to “Stay safe,” and I thought, "I already feel safer seeing the arse end of your rocket ship on wheels." Apprehensive as I was to start hiking again, it was a relief to see her rocket bus careening back down towards Front Royal. Tried to snap a photo but it was mostly out of frame.

My Rockin' Ride:  Adios Christy and Your Flying Trolley Bus, Apr. 25

Town Trail Magic. I have had a time with T-mobile, my internet provider in the US. Turns out I am stuck with them thanks to the small model IPhone that I have. I ALWAYS purchase a pay by the month plan, with unlimited calls and texts to Canada. About 8-10 days into my hike, I was coming up from the Tye River valley and I HAD A SIGNAL -- 3 bars on 5G network… so I got giddy and set out to call Pam… and got a voice message telling me there were insufficient funds in my account?!!! I lost my mind but hiked on, frothing (not foaming!) at the mouth. That night, at a place called Maupin Field, I set up camp and shadoobie, I had 3 bars on 5G. So I called T-mobile customer service. After many prompts, I got a live person, soft spoken and too cheerful, who tells me I need to pay more to call Canada! (Am sitting on my bear canister with my notebook, phone plan info and this person cheerily telling me again, patiently, that I owe them money. It was getting really cold and darker by the minute, but I was staying warm thanks to rage. "Where are you?" she asks. "In Virginia," I says. "What country is that in?" she asks. "The U.S.!" I scream. "Are you near a T-mobile store?" she asks (always sweet and pleasant). "I am hiking in the (insert expletive -- I was a tad cranky) mountains!" I say, gesturing like a French Canadian… and then proceed to tumble backwards off the bear canister, phone and notepad go flying. I collect my crap, give them 6 more bucks by Visa, and she asks in that sweet patient voice, "Would you recommend T-mobile to family and friends….." AAAAGGGGGHHHHHH!!!. No bears came visiting that night. On a side note, when I purchased another month's data a few weeks later, I was kicked off the automated system and was connected with a human. Marlon, as pleasant as the last person I lost my mind with, says, “ I see from our files that you are a hiker*…. I am a hiker, too." "Where are you at, friend Marlon?" me asks. "The Philippines," he answers cheerfully.

* evidently, thanks to my surly behaviour, T-mobile has a naughty file on me.

So long back-story to the town trail magic portion of this tale. One week ago today, as I walked to the Dollar General, I see a T-mobile tent at a farmers' market. I had lost my internet connection a few days prior. So I saunter over and two sharp and friendly customer service reps take my phone, go into the settings and restore my internet and then the young woman says, "I also changed some stuff. Your phone was always going to look for a 5G network which is pointless up on the trail; I have set it up so it will look for 5G but quickly default to a more available network. You will have reception more often up there and you won’t burn battery power as quickly." She handed it back to me with a big smile and then the 3 of us talked for 10 minutes about topics ranging from volcanoes to Mounties. Magic!!

The One Benefit of Insomnia

My friend and colleague Emily M told me last year that if I ever got into serious trouble on my hike, she would send her Uncle Mike to bail me out. Let’s just say that Uncle Mike is skilled in the errrr…..”tactical arts and sciences“. I have been sleeping really poorly out here this year. Nothing new for me. On April 26, I set up camp by Morgan’s Mill Stream, at mile 999. I love camping beside running water 'cause I often sleep a bit better. This spot was gorgeous, albeit on a mild incline, which is not uncommon. The canopy consisted of giant oaks and tulip trees. I estimated that the canopy was at least 90 feet high, if not more. I went to bed late (7:30ish) by hiker standards, but could not fall asleep.  Just after 9:30 pm, I heard an approaching helicopter and it was LOUD and it was LOW. I was now on high alert. Suddenly my tent was bathed in bright light -- as bright as day! Was it Uncle Mike, thanks to some miscommunication, here to take me out versus save my butt? It felt like a long time, but likely only a few seconds. Thankfully it powered off into the night, but I listened for a long time for fear it might return. Had I been sound asleep, am pretty certain my heart would have stopped for good. At the very least, I think I would still be cleaning up my tent, if you catch my drift. Didn’t get much sleep that night, in spite of the burbling creek.

Camp at Morgan's Mill stream, after chopper fright night, Apr27

Story for Arthur

On either side of US route 522, lay the grounds of the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute. The trail follows their tall chainlink fence for miles on either side. On the south side, the fencing is old, full of breaches from fallen trees, holes in the fencing, etc. My first thought was wild boar enclosure, and I reflected on how wild and feral populations are decimating the landscape and more all across North America… but then I read details in my trail guide during my “convalescing" period. The north side of the highway is totally different. New, taller fencing, cleared rights of way around the perimeter, warning signage etc. My guide book says regarding the north compound: “exotic animals sometimes visible” but I think that’s a government tactic to keep people in the dark. My theory: the bashed up south side is where the Jurassic Park dinosaurs busted out…, and the north side is where they keep the unicorns. This story has nothing to do with sleep deprivation. 

Health Care in the U.S.

This is not a political blog, nor an “our system vs their system” blog. It is a blog about my experiences on the AT, but as Dad Dog observed, it’s about people. I have had two experiences in the U.S. health care system. The one in recent weeks is a “dislocated nose hair” in comparison to what Pam, our kids, and I experienced in our North Carolina days over 25 years ago. Both times, however, I experienced professionalism, compassion, expertise, follow up, modern facilities, and my favourite of all: barnyard style humour. So a big shout out this year to the folks at Valley Health Urgent Care and Warren County Memorial Hospital... and, what the hell, to Christy,  whose rocket trolley got me to my appointments and tests all over greater Front Royal, always…. ahead of schedule. On the humour side: when I was registered at the hospital and waiting for an ultrasound AND getting permission from my insurance provider for said ultrasound, I noticed my hospital bracelet was for some other guy, born in 2003. At that exact moment, the ultrasound technician (I forget her name but I do remember her hubby was originally from The Soo….. Ontario, not Michigan) came to get me. I pointed out the bracelet error and she smiled and said, “Well, let’s just go on back to Registration and correct that.” On our way back to Imaging she said, “Good thing you weren’t being admitted for surgery under the wrong name,” and I said, “Ya, it would be a drag if I got two lungs removed when it was supposed to be a knee replacement," and she said, “Or a barium enema…” And darn it, when we got to the room didn't she become a serious health care professional and me, a cooperative patient. To borrow from Rope who I mentioned last blog, “That’s my kinda health care, baby!” Magnificent!  

They Said It

I saw a nun when I was at the hospital. It has been years and years (I was raised Catholic, so I have some history). I told Pam about it. She said, “Was she wearing a habit?” and I said, “How else would I know she was a nun?!!???"

A number of male hikers in my age demographic: When they learn that Pam not only accepts my obsession, but SUPPORTS it: “You are very lucky!” (I know). She is a bit of an anomaly out here in that most men I have met don't get the support of their spouses. One peach of a guy said, "My wife's really pissed that I'm out here doing this."

Pam again: “Don’t let your stubborn side override your common sense” My bride of 39 years (yesterday) being generous with the “common sense” part.

Crossing the "Threshold" on our 39th Wedding Anniversary, Apr. 28

 

Flora

Giant and young American Beech trees without signs of beech bark disease! What they do suffer from, thanks to their smooth bark and tagging hikers, is carved initials, carved names, sometimes even carved porn… Giant tulip trees that grow like weeds between Front Royal and, umm uh, maybe 12-15 miles back from here. Garlic mustard (yuk), poison ivy (yuk), trilliums, mayapple, and other cool ground covers… and the Green Tunnel (leaf cover!!!) is back in full glory (yippie!!).

The Green Tunnel! April 25, 2023

Fauna

Flicker (yellow shafted or red, not sure), ruffed grouse drumming, catbirds (heard), goldfinches (seen), pileated woodpecker (photographed), scarlet tanager (seen repeatedly in one spot but too flighty (get it?) to sit still for a good shot), wood thrushes, ovenbirds, jays, white-throated sparrows (my “play list” as I stood with manure-eating grin at 1000 mile sign, scanning above for helicopters), unidentified owl cruising about 8-10 feet above forest floor, eight-spotted forester moth (photo, and identified by daughter Alida), stunning Easter Box Turtle discovered by Tea Time and photographed by moi, identified by Alida.

Pileated Woodpecker, April 27, 2023

Eight-Spotted Forester Moth, April 26, 2023

1000 Mile Mark

Circle of Life

My Aunt Monique, who I mentioned last time out, sadly died a few days ago. Thanks to new friend, T-mobile, I received the news on a beautiful day on the AT. She will be missed, but she is at peace after a particularly tough grind for her and her kids. Adieu, Matante.

The next day, or perhaps even later that same day, my friend Jill sent me a photo of her gorgeous daughter and newborn grandson. It’s all about the people.

In Loving Memory of Monique Lemieux Johnson
Gonna be a reunion in Heaven with cards, laughter, and likely gin!

Shout Outs To  

Cathy: I am well, thank you. And thanks for reaching out.

Bobbie and Mitch in Fincastle, VA: Thanks for your kind offer of assistance if needed, and Mitch: that tube of coffee you gave me all those weeks ago did taste like dessert!

Catherine C in Noble, ON -- family mentor (along with dear Carl) and cherished friend to Pam and me, upon learning about my hike last year, said "He's a bloody fool!" Catherine saw what I could not see.

Dave at ATC HQ here in Harpers Ferry: Dave quizzed me and two others on Leave No Trace and granted us our 2023 hang tags and postcards.

Sarah "Rigby" Beeler (2016 Flip-Flopper) Cincinnati, OH: Rigby likely doesn't know this, but our chat on a Canadian Thanksgiving feast chez the Seguin Family (Stratford, ON) got me thinking... me tinks I could do this.

AT Thru Hiker Hang Tag

The ATC Postcard

Trail Names

Sherpa Dave and Raj (greater D.C): Potomac AT club members who do 14 miles every Tuesday. Sherpa Dave hiked the whole thing over a 30 year period! He has hiked almost all of the tallest peaks in each Canadian province and Territory! He wants to go see Churchill, Manitoba soon. I told him my brother-in-law Michael spent a chunk of his childhood in that funky town.

Denise H. from northern Virginia... curious about long distance hiking with a young family and gave me a delicious APPLE; Mark from Missouri… we had a great visit on a nasty day; Cup of Tea from SW England; Dreaded Bohemian, a nurse from Alabama doing a gear shake down and a dope Sponge Bob Square Pants impersonator! Watch him play the wooden tounge drum HERE. You'd make him very happy if you "Like" his video.

Frizzle (beautiful Maine), Gray Eagle (Huntsville, Alabama), Pheasant Clucker (U.K. but currently living in Spain), Rainbow Warrior and her dad Dad Dog (you sound like Sylvester the Cat if you say that out loud) from D.C, and last but not least, Short Rib (Chapel Hill NC, shopping for new trail shoes earlier today here in town). Short Rib heard the choppers from another campsite that same night, so a proof is a proof is proof (can’t believe I just quoted Jean Crétien)*.

* I pledge to continue to quote the late Jerry Clower... but Crétien? Nope.

Dreaded Bohemian, April 26, 2023

Last Word Goes to Me

I was nervous getting back on the Trail a few days ago, but knew I was gaining back some confidence when I completed the Roller Coaster. A hiker, southbound and just starting the Trail, asked me, “How was it, man?” "It was kinda cool,” my reply.

The Roller Coaster, April 26, 2023

Back at it tomorrow morning (May 1st). Mila and Jer S. (Brome, QC): Dr. Mayo's leg is FINE!!!!"

Thanks everyone!

Sponge FOB

   

PS

Rob: I still miss you; do you even remember me?

PPS

A final last word: and a warning that this is full of hidden meanings that should mean something to some Leaf Fans out there. If you don't care about hockey, look away.

So, to Donald S (somewhere in North America), Kevin D. (not the turkey, but a fine gent farming on Matt Cardiff Line in the GBA or Greater Brussels Area, and Brad D. raising pigs and taking names near Fenwick, ON: my Canadien blood got a little bluer and whiter last night, no lie! Big congratulations! I am thrilled... for us and others... And Clancy (RR#1, Heaven): stop gnashing your teeth over this. At long last, it's THEIR TURN!

ENOUGH!!!

April 20, 2023

Hello from Front Royal VA, mile 972 nobo on the AT.

Seeking Solitude not Isolation, April 8, 2023

I hobbled into town on the 18th after 21 days in the mountains... with a bit of an issue. More on that later.

Why the Appalachian Trail? Last year Pam asked me if I was having any spiritual moments out here. I have many, and I suppose it is in the woods where I become spiritual. A few weeks ago at Matt’s Creek, a lovely young couple, having immigrated to the US from China a few years back, asked me, “Why the AT? There are so many beautiful trails to hike in America?” Then on Easter Sunday while eating my lunch on an outcropping about 2000’ above a gorgeous agricultural setting, I had the absolute great fortune of meeting retirees Anne and Cap of Lynchburg VA, their daughter Margaret Anne, and their aged dog Rosic, who other day hikers had mistaken for a bear.

Easter Sunday Vista

We chatted for almost an hour. Margaret Anne is an accomplished hiker in her own right. Among many trails, she's completed most of the 4000’+ peaks in NH, the 100 Mile Wilderness in Maine, and climbed Katahdin, the ever elusive northern terminus of this path. She was curious about my hike and dreams of doing it herself when her life is not as fast paced as it is right now. Cap was most interested in what kind of hike I was having and what I was getting out of it, and was particularly pleased about “the calm that washes over me” when I am totally immersed in this experience. He told me I was after solitude, but not complete isolation. He seemed pleased with that. I thought to myself, “This guy is able to read me like an Archie comic.” A wise man. When we parted, he squeezed my shoulder and said, “You are the true essence of an AT hiker.” Very kind but mostly indicative of our shared values.

After they left, I admit I did think that “essence” has multiple meanings. Why the AT? Both of my parents grew up in small villages in Quebec in what I consider to be the northern foothills of this mountain chain. Camping trips to the White Mountains in NH with my parents and three sisters, with memories of hutsmen (called croo today) hauling 100+ lbs of goods up to the huts along the trail on wooden framed packs! Margaret Anne confirmed to me they still use those frames some 50 yrs later! I am tracing trade routes first carved by indigenous peoples, and later, settlers. Generations later, enhancements had been made by the Civilian Conservation Corps (program to put Americans to work after WWI), and still today by AT club volunteers and the Forest Service. The history is everywhere, with old gravesites, remnants of settlements, battles fought long ago, etc. And the peaks, views, birdsong, forest, flora and fauna -- what a privilege to be here!

An Indigenous Directional Tree?

There have been serendipitous moments from my past, like the time my sister Julie, my dad, and I ran into my Uncle Geoffrey and cousins Catherine and Tom near the top of Mt Washington in NH. Julie and I were perhaps in high school? What my dad did later that day at the foot of the mountain to surprise his sister Monique, who hadn't ventured up to the summit, is family lore (my dear MaTante is the only still living of 9 siblings). It was my Uncle Geoffrey who first told me about something called the Bruce Trail, which he and family were so fond of. Alida and I have done perhaps 150 km of the Bruce Trail, and my friend Colleen is in the late stages of completing all 900 km!! So we long-distance hikers are a tad obsessed with the grind and grandeur of this Appalachian Trail and other incredible footpaths.

Sunrise at Bird's Nest #3, April 16, 2023

Stories for Arthur (you will have to forgive the bodily function nature of most of these tales, little buddy, but you must admit that topic looms large for a guy who will just be 5 months of age when this post is shared):

Rope: I met Rope as I descended The Priest on Good Friday. He was southbound on a very difficult ascent, carrying a 60 lb pack. I was in full rain gear as I had left the summit in a deluge of rain, then ice pellets, then snow. Rope was wearing a cotton T-shirt. He had done most of the trail over a few years when he could earn enough money for food and tequila. He didn’t like going into town. Last year he was in Hiawassee, GA and had enough money for one night in a motel, but there were zero vacancies, so he pitched his tent on the lawn of the courthouse. “That way when the law gave me a citation, I wouldn’t have to go far to pay the fine!” So why “Rope”? Answer: “It’s on account of how I take a dump. I carry this rope. I put the rope thru the center of my roll of toilet paper, run the rope around a tree, then tie it around my waist. Hands free, baby!”

Blackrock Hut: I was up just before sunrise and went to use the privy (ask your dad what that is). Someone was outside shuffling in the leaves and I was mildly annoyed with their impatience. When I opened the door to leave, there was a deer looking right at me not 5 feet away. She was not startled and posed for a few pictures.

Privy Deer at Little Roundtop Mountain, April 13, 2023

David Bohl: David lives in Hawaii and I met him one morning when I stopped to camel [trail lingo meaning to fill-up on water] at a Skyline Drive rest area in the Shenandoah National Forest. We had a great chat that included his love for Bancroft ON. He gave me a craft beer from Texas out of his car cooler. I hauled the thing over 15 miles of ups and downs on an 80 F day, then cooled it that evening in a spring while I soaked my feet. It was very refreshing. BTW we have a standing invite to visit David on the Big Island of Hawaii. One of the things he raved about was living near Pele. I didn’t want to be the guy to break the news to him that Pele died a few months back. Good thing I kept my trap shut. Turns out Pele is an active volcano out there.

Cooling Down at Pinefield Hut, April 12, 2023

Kevin the Turkey: This dude was WAY too habituated to humans but cool just the same. I met Kevin on Blackrock summit. I photographed him from about 40’ away but he was in shade. So he decided to climb the rocks to a point about 5’ from where I sat. I asked him if he cared that I was a tad protein deprived, but he just kept preening and posing.

Kevin the Turkey, April 12, 2023

The Mouse: Again in a privy, but this time at Byrd’s Nest #3 hut, I found myself there in darkness. There was a rustling beside me which I ignored. When I went to leave and opened the door, I noticed an empty 20 litre pail on the floor, with a deer mouse inside. It had a look of exasperation on its little deermouse face, so I tipped the bucket and let her go. Hope it was a learning experience for her.

Story for Robbie (my amazing dog):  On April 15, I met 2 day hiker uprights walking with their beautiful Basset Hound. We stopped to visit and the man said to the hound, “What on earth are you chewing on now?” The woman and I responded simultaneously, “A rock”. “No he ain’t!" said the man. Then he fished in the dog’s mouth and eventually pulled out... a rock. I am pretty certain the hound, the woman, and I all looked at the man thinking… idiot.

Other stuff: My fuel canister ran empty April 8, which is odd because it was full when I left home and last year, in much colder weather, I was getting 16-18 days out of one. One of the necessities out here is adaptation. So I did. All my meals are cold soaks now and they taste quite good. My favourite breakfast is 2 cups water, 2 packs instant breakfast, 3 scoops powdered milk, I scoop cocoa, 1 scoop instant coffee, one squeeze olive oil, and whatever dried leaf remnants that make their way in (free fibre).

Cold Soak Lunch Prep

Shenandoah National Forest: I have completed the 100 or so miles and must admit I won’t miss it. The forest consist primarily of oaks and hickories. There are very few conifers, in stark contrast to the trail from Georgia to Rockfish Gap just south of Shenandoah. Extreme weather events, fire, disease and likely pollution have hammered the canopy, in my estimation. Skyline Drive, a tourist route through the park, is forever present. I crossed it 20 or 30 times as the trail weaves a similar trajectory. I realize that the greatest population density in the US starts just about an hour's drive to the east. I knew it would be different from the remoteness down south, and what I hope to experience later in VT, NH, and Maine. The weather has been hot and sunny, and the leaf canopy is only just emerging, so there is no “Green Tunnel” yet.

Evidence of Past Extreme Weather Event, Three Ridges, Apr. 9, 2023

Vista with Skyline Drive in the Foreground, April 17 2023

I had a bizarre encounter April 15 as I passed thru the property of Skyland, a mountain resort. The AT shares a side trail for about half a mile with an approach trail to a vista called Stony Man. As I walked it, all of a sudden came a rush of little girls and women in party dresses and ball gowns, and photographers… all reeking of body wash, shampoo, perfume, etc. After 19 days in the woods, it was a jolt, but amusing just the same. Not sure what they thought of me. On the upside, there are occasional trash cans and water hydrants, and Waysides (rest areas that typically offer services including food and groceries). I was able to top up my food supply at Big Meadows, one of the few Waysides open this early in the season.

People/Trail Names: Brian Shirley, a retired forester (Elk Mtn VA); Rope (Ft Worth TX); Anne & Cap (Lynchburg VA) & Margaret Anne (Charlottesville VA); Hipster (Reading PA -- a sobo hiker trying to find happiness again after some difficult times); Colin (TN) & Amily (QC!!!) --  I passed this couple on a crossing on Skyline Drive and noticed Quebec plates so I said “Salut Québec" as I passed. Colin looked confused but Amily’s face lit up! We had a nice visit and then they had to return home 'cause Colin forgot his guitar, but Amily had packed her ukulele for the day hike); Lobster (DC) and Poptart (VA); R.P from Mass., a few years my senior. R.P. has done about 1100 miles over a few years. His tail name is his late son’s initials… they were supposed to do the AT together until tragedy struck. “He’s been with me every step,” he said, patting his thigh pocket where he keeps his son’s ashes (we both welled up at that point); a Scout troop and leaders from Delaware. After a long discussion at Thornton Gap where they all got off trail to go home, one of the leaders, originally from Massena, NY, said, “Go Leafs!" I said, “Not a chance, I am a Canadiens fan by birthright,” to which he replied, “Habs, yuk!!”; Tiffany (WV) who was out for the day with real cameras… we had great conversation as she wanted to know all about my experiences. She then asked if she could take my photo, so I obliged. It took 3 attempts before she was satisfied. She said it was all about lighting but I knew the truth... it’s this face I wear! Asset (Lancaster PA); Violet (VA) who has 7 “thrus” on her resumé, currently guides in Shenandoah, and was absolutely thrilled I was trying to get to Maine. She threw her arms in the air and let out a “YEAAAHHHH” and gave me a giant chocolate bar! Six Guys From Jersey out doing a section hike: “Pennsylvania is really rocky!” they warned… So I have been told, countless times. And lastly Leaf Cutter and Question Mark from just outside Philly, who asked if they could follow the blog.

Blackrock, April 12, 2023

Canuck requires his own paragraph. I met Canuck at Byrd’s nest #3 on April 15. It was him, moi, and the Delaware Scouts. It started to rain after each had set up our tents and we met at the bear box where each was stashing food for the night. He gave me his trail name and I gave him mine, then told him I was a canuck too. We agreed to meet if the rain subsided (which it did about 30 minutes later) but Canuck had fallen asleep and slept 14 hours straight! Canuck lives on Vancouver Island and is a retired teacher and principal, doing the second 700 mile instalment of a 3 year project. He told me he was born in Stratford, ON but moved shortly after. Pretty epic, right? That is nuthin’ kids. Hold on to y’all’s britches before reading on and PAY CLOSE ATTENTION any of you MFS people who might be reading this!!! The next morning we chatted more and exchanged phone #s, etc. Then he began quizzing me about Ontario because he had lost touch with much of his family. Then it got bizarre. He gave me his last name and then asked me about a certain wee community near the French River, where all his family is rooted. I am being vague to protect a certain young man’s privacy. Yo MFSers! Remember a certain ZP, whom many of us guided and nurtured for all those years? Canuck has since confirmed to me, after reaching out to his brother, that the bro is ZP’s stepfather! Kinda blew me away, so it did.

New critters not previously encountered this year: whippoorwills, white throated sparrows (“Oh Canada, canada, canada” sounding song), grey rat snake, ring necked snake, woodcock, brown thrasher, mockingbird, cardinals, jays, plus others I can’t identify.

Northbound Black Rat Snake, April 16, 2023

Quotable Quotes: They Said It: “Hey Reece, can I borrow your tick key?” And this beaut from two little girls as they led a group of adults and dogs on a day hike April 15 near Crusher Ridge Side Trail: Girl #1: “So like my dad is obsessed with knives. He bought like three just the other day. So I guess you could say he’s responsible for that knife episode.” Girl # 2: “Ya, that makes sense."

My Little Issue: I am stalled here in Front Royal with a bum leg. I had some ankle pain 10 days ago after a steep descent into McCormick Gap but didn’t think much of it. Over the course of the next few days, the pain got worse and migrated up towards my calf, along with substantial swelling. It intensified over the next few days. Leaving Byrd’s Nest on April 16, I was pretty sure my right leg had quit the trail on me but what ya gonna do, call a cab? So on I trudged, having exhausted my supply of vitamin I (ibuprofen in hikerspeak). When I got to Front Royal, I booked three nights in this dive motel because I knew I had to deal with it. April 20 was about 10 hours of appointments, waiting rooms, and scans. Pam and I were each thinking stress fracture, but the nurse practitioner was also thinking blood clot. Luckily all tests negative, which is most positive. Practitioner says rest, ice, compression, elevation, and some walking for at least a week, then resume hike if fully recovered. If not, she recommended that I go home and see an orthopaedic specialist. So we’ll see what happens… and I will decide Monday 24th. My heart wants to get back on the trail NOW but my carcass ain’t having it. No regrets. I have a stupendous family and life to go back to whether it be sooner or later.

Damn Hot and Water Deprived, April 16, 2023

I apologise a bit for a long winded post but after all, I find myself with lots of time all of a sudden. Thanks for your time and all your encouraging messages… unfortunately none of which I am able to respond to via the blog but I read them all!

Marooned in Front Royal,

Stump FOB