Halfway

May 14. 2023

Hello from Pine Grove, Pennsylvania, MILE 1196 for North Bounders.

Crossing Interstate 20, Maryland, May 2

I left Harpers Ferry May 1 and had a cool but nerve wracking walk across the Goodloe E Bryon Memorial Footbridge, which is mere feet from the CSX Transportation rail line. Much to my delight an eastbound coal train was approaching as I was at mid bridge, high above the Potomac River. The trail portion of the bridge began to shake and sway… I lay down my poles and fumbled with my camera, then turned my back and plugged my ears as the locomotives approached. I was terrified he might whistle just to freak me out… but I managed a glance upwards and the engineer was laughing his ass off. Weenie Foamer.

Goodloe E Bryon Memorial Footbridge, May 1

Once off the bridge you are in Maryland, immediately walking on the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal towpath, and soon back up into the mountains. The next week would see lots of rain and rock. I always find it a wee bit tough mentally to get back on the trail after 2-3 nights in town. It takes a bit to get back in the mode -- you quickly forget all the potential hazards that might lay ahead.

Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Towpath, May 1

To this point, I have hiked 129 Pennsylvania miles, with another 101 to go before I cross into New Jersey. The serious rocks this state is famous for started in earnest about 75 miles in, and I am told will continue thru Jersey and New York.

"Rocksylvania" May 7

My shoes are just about done so will have new ones waiting for me at Delaware Water Gap Post Office, just as I exit PA. Despite other's opinions to the contrary, I really enjoyed the 40 Maryland miles. The blast of rock graffiti between High Rock and the PA border was both jarring and disappointing, but the numerous comfort stations, state parks, and enough rock-hopping to prepare for Rocksylvania were worth the crummy weather. The original Washington Monument was pretty cool too.

Original Washington Monument, Maryland May 2

Story for Arthur: I have been struggling to keep down the concoction of calorie and protein ingredients (recommended by your Momma!) that I had purchased and sent forward in 500 miles worth of resupply boxes. I eat it every day for lunch but dread the exercise as it grosses me out tremendously. I know it is effective fuel so I eat the crap. I have been pondering ways to make it taste better and have failed to date, until this flash of brilliance hit me:

1) Feed the calorie/protein crap to a bear (not at all bear-wise as a FED BEAR IS A DEAD BEAR).

2) Tag said bear so I can find it later (good luck with that stunt).

3) Return in the fall, locate and harvest said bear (probably get us locked up, Arthur).

4) Make jerky out of the bear, feed some to Little Bear (but you have no teeth) and eat the rest on the trail (but by then hike is long over).

Glad I worked that thru before implementing such an ill-conceived plan. So I continue to shovel it in. Trail friend, Diesel, gave me a packet of Truff hot sauce to try, but ended up eating it all by itself. Really yummy!!!

The crap I eat for lunch. A packet of TRUFF helped to kill the taste!

Trail Hazards:  Gobbler hunters can hunt turkeys all of May here in PA, and they can hunt right beside the Trail!. Sure hope Christy from Front Royal isn't planning to hunt up here, for I shall be doomed! I met two creepy guys one day just north of Quarry Gap shelter. The first had a big pack and acted overly animated and slightly aggressive. Five minutes later, I met his travelling companion (confirmed by other hikers they were a pair) sitting trail side with no pack but he did have a white plastic bag and what was obviously a soda can crack pipe, complete with residue (I know this because it was about 6” from my foot and I received such training long ago from the Bladen County (NC) Sheriffs Dept). Stupid me asked him if he's okay, to which he replied “Why the hell you asking me that?” Needless to say, I was able to increase my hiking speed to make distance.

Trail friend, Frizzle, also had a nervous encounter with a group of young men along the towpath mentioned above, but had the presence of mind to call her hubby and maintain a loud conversation until they dropped back and disappeared.

Sponge FOB, Frizzle, and Pokeyhontas May 1

Danger of Losing Katahdin: Trail officials and volunteers were telling a group of us a week ago that the much sought after northern terminus in Maine is under threat of being off limits to hikers, thanks to some Hikers Behaving Badly. As such, much lobbying is taking place to try to persuade authorities in Maine to NOT shut down the mountain to hikers. Katahdin and Baxter State Park are under strict land management practices that include zero tolerance of alcohol consumption and doing ecological harm to the sensitive alpine biome. It is also sacred lands to the Penobscot Band. And yet some choose to ignore all of this and treat it like a fraternity house. Sad and very maddening.

Big holes: I camped at a place called Yellow Springs Village Site, May 10. A pretty and secluded spot that was once a coal mining community. You would not know it today except for coal deposits still in evidence and a GIANT hole in the forest floor... that could have consumed a number of the houses on my street. Good thing I am not a sleepwalker.

Trail that Crosses a Beaver Dam: only got one soaker.

Recent Burn Areas: I hiked thru two burn areas this week between Duncannon PA and Second Mountain. Potential to stray off course when trail blazes are on charred trees.

Old Burn Site May 5

Crowds: On May 10, I was cruising along near a lookout called Table Rock. These days I am doing 18-20 miles per day. If I see more that 10 people in nine or ten hours, that is a lot. On this day I began to hear a noise way off in the distance, presumably on the trail north of me but hard to tell. As I hiked on, it got progressively louder but I still could not identify it. I stepped off the path at Table Rock to have a look and met a guy named Jay. "Do you know what that noise is?" I asked. He smiled and said “I have 150 nine and ten year olds about a quarter mile ahead and my colleagues are just staging them in groups so they can come here to be photographed. Are they ever going to be excited to see you! They have yet to meet a hiker.” Was not prepared for that! I did not linger when I met the group as the sound was ear splitting. Nevertheless, it was pretty cool to see them getting exposure to the outdoors.

Dog Bites: Hiker Gummy Bear showed me a nasty gash on his bicep from a dog bite. He got off trail long enough to get treatment. "Some random dog?" I asked. "No, golden retriever on a leash," replied GB.

Trail Hazards Cont'd: There was a report of bedbugs in the Birch Run shelter! One more reason to be a tent guy.

Trail Magic: A cyclist approached me along the C&O towpath. Instead of telling me to “Get a bike, hiker trash,” he smiled, extended his left arm and handed me a pack of dried fruit as he flew past and yelled, “AT hiker…awesome!” A woman by the name of Tia Bonster (near South Mountain PA) left a big ziplock bag trailside full of goodies, and left a note with a simple request “Please don’t take my bag as I will return for it later.”

Sweet Trail Magic May 4

Wanderlust drove all the way from Denver CO to do trail magic. He rented the PACT Milesburn cabin and cooked brats and tube steaks, and offered beer, chips, and fruit. He hiked the trail in '94/95 and wanted to finally give back. He told me that I must be French Canadian… presumably because of the buff on my head… which is from Cape Breton. Pam figures he meant Acadian, so not far off. Steve at PA 645: Steve dished out cold drinks and pretzels. He’d like to hike but is wary of snakes and insects, so does magic instead. “And another thing I love about you hikers is that NONE of you wear those red ball caps I am so sick of seeing.”

Trail Magic at PA 645 Courtesy of Steve May 12

People:

So long and thank you Gordon Lightfoot.

Shoutout to Ale and Anita B (Ville Emard QC) who always seem to be out in nature, and thriving in it! Your parents are setting a fabulous example and you two look so at home in the outdoors!

Curt Finney: Curt and family are caretakers at the Tumbler Ridge shelters in PA in Michaux State Forest. Curt’s love of the forest, The Trail, and those shelters run deep. A fellow hiker asked Curt to recount a favourite story from over his 30 years as caretaker. “There was the time I came up here with my wife at dusk to check on things. Nobody here except for this half naked, Charlie Manson-like guy, in a trance sitting in a dark shelter, surrounded by lit candles. Curt asked him if he was ok and the guy looked up and said “I’ve been expecting you.” Curt’s wife ran home! “Just some trust-fund kid off his meds," Curt explained. "Forest Service got him his meds and told him to move along.”

Tumbler Ridge Shelters May 3

Humour aplenty at these twin shelters with Smoking and Non Smoking signs, tree sentinels at all of the tent sites, a doorbell on the privy as well as a dummy light switch inside with a Solar or Lunar option. There were also about 6 rolls of T.P. and hand-sanitizer! Dare I say typical AT privies are very crude in comparison.

Tree Sentinel at Tent Site May 3

Legendary Big Bear and Toothbrush (MD): I met this couple on May 5. Dave conceived his name while hiking with a group, including wife Toothbrush, in the High Sierra’s in California. He is a very big man and in really good shape. Dave separated from his group on a particular day as he didn't feel like doing many more elevation gains. At one point, he became entangled in a massive patch of stinging nettles that went on and on. In great discomfort and frustrated as his pack and accoutrements were becoming entangled, he burst forward and let out a yell. Around the corner were a pair of “California stoners“ who were at first terrified, then relieved, then impressed. Later Dave met up with a guy who was packing an inflatable to go floating in a lake so Dave followed and went for a swim. He found a place to pitch his tent and hung his clothes to dry. He retreated into his tent and dressed into his black thermals. Then it started to pour so he dashed out to get his clothes, "like a big black bear." And there were the same two stoners, “Wow dude, that was LEGENDARY!!!” Before Dave reconnected with his group the next day, his wife Toothbrush and the rest of his party met the two stoners who went on and on about The LEGEND they were such good pals with.

Hostels: I did my first hostel stay at a place called the Ironmaster’s Mansion, May 5 and 6 as I cooled my heals to time a resupply pickup. It had its perks but I was anxious to move on after one night.

Ironmaster's Mansion: Hostel in Pine Grove Furnace State Park May 5

Trail Names: KC (What’s your trail name? KC. Where you from? KC. I got your name but where ya from? KC. So he’s KC from KC. "Did that to make it easier on folks," but I still managed to flub it up; Frizzle (Chasing Blazes on YouTube) from Mass (I helped her with some logistics and she gave me friendship and company thru a section of MD); Showtime (SW Germany and teaching himself harmonica on the trail); Pokeyhontas (AT ‘95), Mouse (NH) and dog Isis; Stitches (got a trail gash on forehead and her companions suggested she tattoo a silhouette of Maine at the top of the gash and Georgia at the bottom), Kim (PA); Fire Flo and service dog Jojo (Alabama); Tasters Choice (Queens NY); Diesel and Eco (PA); Unicorn and Rntul (PA/FL); Trina and Corey (TX); So-Duck of Scranton PA (hit his head on a shelter beam, then fellow hiker said, “So next time, DUCK!”; Sock Monkey (Chicago); Skippy (CO); Eric (NC) just retired after 30 years in the Marines; Tommy (MI) who took some excess leucotape off my hands!; Happy Hermit (VA); Flying Camel and Alchemist from State College PA. Flying Camel teaches Health Care Communication at Penn State so next time we meet I want to know all about that discipline during a global pandemic, and she wants to know more about how meat industry keeps antibiotic residues out of the food chain; Ogee (PA) and Gummy Bear (NC); Stitches #2 from NY/Conn border area; and finally Blaze and Truk (WI).

Flora: Manitoba Maples along towpath, signs warning about Wavy Leaf Basket Grass, yet another invasive species. I have yet to see a sugar maple, although red maples are aplenty.

Skink May 6

Fauna:  Skink (photograph), ovenbirds and wood thrushes (seen and photographed), phoebes (heard), red-winged blackbirds, black and white warbler (seen), Great Horned owl (heard) and the following seen: brown thrasher, eastern bluebird, eastern meadowlark, mourning doves, red-tailed hawk. And one scruffy looking woodchuck.

They Said It: Hiker Looper (Maine), "I bet every hiker looks longingly at an Amtrak station and thinks, “Maybe I should just go home…” Son William (when he saw recent photo of me): Pietro, you look skinny. Why you no eat? Mangi! Mangi! (Will is rapidly learning Italian… along with wife Candice).  Missy at the Ironmaster’s Mansion hostel when I thanked her and said goodbye, "Toda"  [Hebrew for thank-you].

Missy: The Biggest Heart in all of PA May 7

Teacher with group of 150 kids mentioned above: Me: “And I thought my logistics were complex… are you obligated to bring each one of these kids back to town?" Him: “Naw, we’re aiming to return with about 90% of them.” Lawn sign just after I crossed over PA Turnpike: under the silhouette of a rifle, the message read, “Burglars: please carry ID so we can notify next of kin.” Sister Julie and her family, “We’re having a little party in honour of you making it half way!” A party I was invited to, via FaceTime! Postal clerk in Boiling Springs PA when I stopped to get re-supply box, “Oh, I know how to spell your last name.” Note: still riding the fumes of the Mario Factor in this state. Man near Susquehanna Rivers overlooks, May 10. Me: "Is that the Rockville Bridge off in the distance?" Him: "Maybe, but if you look carefully you can see Statue of Liberty in the foreground." Me: "Are you nuts?"  Turns out they have more than one!

Susquehanna River with Rockville Rail Bridge May 10

MIDPOINT: many different locations and 4 different photos…

Halfway Point... again May 5

Halfway Point May5

And again May 5

And yet again!!! May 5

Story for Robbie [my dog]: On the morning of May 12, I was in poor humour as my feet were very sore and I was frustrated after a phone call with an underachieving, unaccommodating hotel clerk in Hamburg PA. As I sat by my tent eating breakfast and feeling bummed, a Wood Thrush hopped up to within five feet from me, close enough for a blurry photo.

Only later did I come to learn that Toki, the big black dog of William’s, who you, Robbie, both loved and sometimes despised because he ate your treats and stole your bed, has left the trail for good. Last week I heard a day-hiker say, “No Toki” to their dog. I took it as an omen as I have never met another dog with that name. Now, I imagine the Wood Thrush was just doing what you animals seem to do, provide signs and comfort when shit happens. Toki, old friend, you will be sorely missed, and am crying as I type this, one letter at a time. Toki and Will. A team that will endure.

Thanks all,

Sponge FOB

The FOB is Back

April 29, 2023

Hello from Harpers Ferry, West Virginia -- mile 1026 for us north-bounders and the sentimental midpoint of the AT.

Back to the Trail: Scared @%*#less about how it's going to go, Apr 25

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters, the governing body of this magnificent path, is located in Harpers Ferry. Mathematically speaking, the official midpoint lies just south of Pine Grove Furnace State Park, Pennsylvania, about another 70 miles from here. Harpers Ferry is a special place -- cool beyond my ability to describe. Mountain town, confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers, rich Civil War history, the AT, and dare I say a foamer’s delight. "What is a foamer?" asked Pam… well, it’s a derogatory term railroaders use to describe weirdos like this hiker. We foam at the mouth each time we see, hear, or smell a train. Brother-in-law Ken, a career railroader, is likely nodding his head in Lachine QC as he reads this.

NS or CSX... once a foamer, always a foamer! April 28, 2023

Shenandoah River, Harpers Ferry WV, April 28, 2023

A taste of Harpers Ferry. Really cool town! April 29, 2023

I literally ran here yesterday (12.6 miles) because the weather was nasty, only stopping to snap a photo of a gorgeous Eastern Box Turtle fellow hiker Tea Time had spotted, and to chat with Mark (trail name for now: Freedom), a peach of a guy from just north of Kansas City, MO. Mark is out doing a shakedown hike -- testing gear for a Thru he is planning in a few years.

Eastern Box Turtle spotted by Cup of Tea, April 28, 2023

The night before, I, along with 4 other hikers, just happened upon the Blackburn Center, a hiker oasis at the bottom of a series of switchbacks. Run by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club who maintains a MASSIVE chunk of this trail, the Blackburn Center will be burned in my memory for a very long time. I was greeted by Amelia, who along with hubby Adam, are the caretakers. Amelia gave me a ginger ale and a chocolate, and told me to help myself to potable water, power to charge my phone and battery pack, an outdoor shower if I wished, a tent pad!!!, or a spot in the hiker cabin. “This place is for hikers” smiled Amelia. The cost you ask? Voluntary donation.

Blackburn Center, Potomac A.T. Club, April 27, 2023

There I met Dad Dog (recently retired MD from DC). “I got to do some cool stuff and I think I helped people along the way… but this," he said referring to the AT, "I want to do this…” He had that look in his eyes and I liked him instantly. (Incidentally, Dad Dog met Weatherman who I mentioned in an earlier post, as did Margaret Anne who I met on Easter Sunday. Weatherman is one quintessential AT character! Everyone out here should be lucky enough to meet that dude). Dad Dog introduced me to his daughter, Rainbow Warrior. Short Rib and Tea Time, who I'd eaten lunch with earlier that day, also showed up at the Center. I stayed up way past my bedtime (between 7:00 and 7:30 out here!) because I was captivated by these hikers. As a career introvert, I was swept up by their kindness and hiker tales. Then Adam walked over to wish us goodnight. “Sleep tight” he said. “My mom used to say that when she tucked us kids in,” said me. “Mine too” he replied. The next morning, in nasty weather, there were hugs and photos, and we all went off on our own journeys. Dad Dog said “It’s all about the people.” Wise and lovely man!

Front Royal

There were some ups to convalescing for 7 excruciating days in that town… such as:

Jimmy-the-Dive-Motel-Maintenace-Guy. My first day at the Baymont Inn, I locked myself IN my room, but was able to escape using my knife. Promptly forgot about the door 'cause I was in a twist over things medical, my insurance provider, and my… personality. Left the room, likely to get ice for the leg. Went back to room. Locked OUT. Hobble to front desk. “No sweat, we’ll move you to another room. I’ll get Jimmy to meet you up there.” Enter Jimmy, burley and expressionless. He tries his master swipe card. No go. So, like straight out of the movies, he kicks in the door! “Problem solved,” mutters Jimmy as he lumbers off to his next “maintenance” task. So I text my 5 month old grandson Arthur (via dad Alex’s phone) 'cause I had to tell someone, “Just like in the cop shows, he kicked the flippin' door in!” 

Mom. I was there so long, I started calling a senior employee "Mom", 'cause all the other staff did. One day at the Stuff Yer Face breakfast bar (I was there 7 days straight at 6am, as I wasn’t that busy), another guest comes in, walks back and forth three or four times surveying the food (he was old and slow, so it took a while), then mutters, “How come you never have bacon?” and leaves. They had sausage every morning, which was fine by me. Once he’s gone, Mom says “He asks that same damn question every day.” So next morning, I ask “You have any bacon?” and with a big smile, Mom tells me to “Go eff myself.” I knew right then that I was one of the team, albeit financing the payroll, not drawing from it. A delightful young mom named Ashley prepared breakfast 5 of 7 days and she was a joy to chat with.

Ashley... one of the bright spots of my extended stay in Front Royal, Apr. 25

Christy. Christy drives the Front Royal Trolley, a town bus decorated to look like an old time trolley. I've had some real scary walks down mountain roadways to get to my resupply boxes. The road to Front Royal was the scariest by far -- paved US Route 522, winding, about 3 plus miles with no shoulders. Had I not had the good fortune to get scooped at the trailhead by Christy, I am confident she would have been my hit-and-run driver, the one to end, not only my hike, but my life. Hard-breaking, stoplight-running, are-we-gonna-roll-this-thing?, pedestrians scrambling, corner-cutting, etc, etc. Other passengers rolling their eyes with death grips on the seat handles, Christy opening her side window to verbally harass locals. I think her driving freaked her out a bit too, because every time we were ahead of schedule (always!), she had to get off the trolley to have a smoke. When she took me back to the trailhead on the 25th, she told me to “Stay safe,” and I thought, "I already feel safer seeing the arse end of your rocket ship on wheels." Apprehensive as I was to start hiking again, it was a relief to see her rocket bus careening back down towards Front Royal. Tried to snap a photo but it was mostly out of frame.

My Rockin' Ride:  Adios Christy and Your Flying Trolley Bus, Apr. 25

Town Trail Magic. I have had a time with T-mobile, my internet provider in the US. Turns out I am stuck with them thanks to the small model IPhone that I have. I ALWAYS purchase a pay by the month plan, with unlimited calls and texts to Canada. About 8-10 days into my hike, I was coming up from the Tye River valley and I HAD A SIGNAL -- 3 bars on 5G network… so I got giddy and set out to call Pam… and got a voice message telling me there were insufficient funds in my account?!!! I lost my mind but hiked on, frothing (not foaming!) at the mouth. That night, at a place called Maupin Field, I set up camp and shadoobie, I had 3 bars on 5G. So I called T-mobile customer service. After many prompts, I got a live person, soft spoken and too cheerful, who tells me I need to pay more to call Canada! (Am sitting on my bear canister with my notebook, phone plan info and this person cheerily telling me again, patiently, that I owe them money. It was getting really cold and darker by the minute, but I was staying warm thanks to rage. "Where are you?" she asks. "In Virginia," I says. "What country is that in?" she asks. "The U.S.!" I scream. "Are you near a T-mobile store?" she asks (always sweet and pleasant). "I am hiking in the (insert expletive -- I was a tad cranky) mountains!" I say, gesturing like a French Canadian… and then proceed to tumble backwards off the bear canister, phone and notepad go flying. I collect my crap, give them 6 more bucks by Visa, and she asks in that sweet patient voice, "Would you recommend T-mobile to family and friends….." AAAAGGGGGHHHHHH!!!. No bears came visiting that night. On a side note, when I purchased another month's data a few weeks later, I was kicked off the automated system and was connected with a human. Marlon, as pleasant as the last person I lost my mind with, says, “ I see from our files that you are a hiker*…. I am a hiker, too." "Where are you at, friend Marlon?" me asks. "The Philippines," he answers cheerfully.

* evidently, thanks to my surly behaviour, T-mobile has a naughty file on me.

So long back-story to the town trail magic portion of this tale. One week ago today, as I walked to the Dollar General, I see a T-mobile tent at a farmers' market. I had lost my internet connection a few days prior. So I saunter over and two sharp and friendly customer service reps take my phone, go into the settings and restore my internet and then the young woman says, "I also changed some stuff. Your phone was always going to look for a 5G network which is pointless up on the trail; I have set it up so it will look for 5G but quickly default to a more available network. You will have reception more often up there and you won’t burn battery power as quickly." She handed it back to me with a big smile and then the 3 of us talked for 10 minutes about topics ranging from volcanoes to Mounties. Magic!!

The One Benefit of Insomnia

My friend and colleague Emily M told me last year that if I ever got into serious trouble on my hike, she would send her Uncle Mike to bail me out. Let’s just say that Uncle Mike is skilled in the errrr…..”tactical arts and sciences“. I have been sleeping really poorly out here this year. Nothing new for me. On April 26, I set up camp by Morgan’s Mill Stream, at mile 999. I love camping beside running water 'cause I often sleep a bit better. This spot was gorgeous, albeit on a mild incline, which is not uncommon. The canopy consisted of giant oaks and tulip trees. I estimated that the canopy was at least 90 feet high, if not more. I went to bed late (7:30ish) by hiker standards, but could not fall asleep.  Just after 9:30 pm, I heard an approaching helicopter and it was LOUD and it was LOW. I was now on high alert. Suddenly my tent was bathed in bright light -- as bright as day! Was it Uncle Mike, thanks to some miscommunication, here to take me out versus save my butt? It felt like a long time, but likely only a few seconds. Thankfully it powered off into the night, but I listened for a long time for fear it might return. Had I been sound asleep, am pretty certain my heart would have stopped for good. At the very least, I think I would still be cleaning up my tent, if you catch my drift. Didn’t get much sleep that night, in spite of the burbling creek.

Camp at Morgan's Mill stream, after chopper fright night, Apr27

Story for Arthur

On either side of US route 522, lay the grounds of the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute. The trail follows their tall chainlink fence for miles on either side. On the south side, the fencing is old, full of breaches from fallen trees, holes in the fencing, etc. My first thought was wild boar enclosure, and I reflected on how wild and feral populations are decimating the landscape and more all across North America… but then I read details in my trail guide during my “convalescing" period. The north side of the highway is totally different. New, taller fencing, cleared rights of way around the perimeter, warning signage etc. My guide book says regarding the north compound: “exotic animals sometimes visible” but I think that’s a government tactic to keep people in the dark. My theory: the bashed up south side is where the Jurassic Park dinosaurs busted out…, and the north side is where they keep the unicorns. This story has nothing to do with sleep deprivation. 

Health Care in the U.S.

This is not a political blog, nor an “our system vs their system” blog. It is a blog about my experiences on the AT, but as Dad Dog observed, it’s about people. I have had two experiences in the U.S. health care system. The one in recent weeks is a “dislocated nose hair” in comparison to what Pam, our kids, and I experienced in our North Carolina days over 25 years ago. Both times, however, I experienced professionalism, compassion, expertise, follow up, modern facilities, and my favourite of all: barnyard style humour. So a big shout out this year to the folks at Valley Health Urgent Care and Warren County Memorial Hospital... and, what the hell, to Christy,  whose rocket trolley got me to my appointments and tests all over greater Front Royal, always…. ahead of schedule. On the humour side: when I was registered at the hospital and waiting for an ultrasound AND getting permission from my insurance provider for said ultrasound, I noticed my hospital bracelet was for some other guy, born in 2003. At that exact moment, the ultrasound technician (I forget her name but I do remember her hubby was originally from The Soo….. Ontario, not Michigan) came to get me. I pointed out the bracelet error and she smiled and said, “Well, let’s just go on back to Registration and correct that.” On our way back to Imaging she said, “Good thing you weren’t being admitted for surgery under the wrong name,” and I said, “Ya, it would be a drag if I got two lungs removed when it was supposed to be a knee replacement," and she said, “Or a barium enema…” And darn it, when we got to the room didn't she become a serious health care professional and me, a cooperative patient. To borrow from Rope who I mentioned last blog, “That’s my kinda health care, baby!” Magnificent!  

They Said It

I saw a nun when I was at the hospital. It has been years and years (I was raised Catholic, so I have some history). I told Pam about it. She said, “Was she wearing a habit?” and I said, “How else would I know she was a nun?!!???"

A number of male hikers in my age demographic: When they learn that Pam not only accepts my obsession, but SUPPORTS it: “You are very lucky!” (I know). She is a bit of an anomaly out here in that most men I have met don't get the support of their spouses. One peach of a guy said, "My wife's really pissed that I'm out here doing this."

Pam again: “Don’t let your stubborn side override your common sense” My bride of 39 years (yesterday) being generous with the “common sense” part.

Crossing the "Threshold" on our 39th Wedding Anniversary, Apr. 28

 

Flora

Giant and young American Beech trees without signs of beech bark disease! What they do suffer from, thanks to their smooth bark and tagging hikers, is carved initials, carved names, sometimes even carved porn… Giant tulip trees that grow like weeds between Front Royal and, umm uh, maybe 12-15 miles back from here. Garlic mustard (yuk), poison ivy (yuk), trilliums, mayapple, and other cool ground covers… and the Green Tunnel (leaf cover!!!) is back in full glory (yippie!!).

The Green Tunnel! April 25, 2023

Fauna

Flicker (yellow shafted or red, not sure), ruffed grouse drumming, catbirds (heard), goldfinches (seen), pileated woodpecker (photographed), scarlet tanager (seen repeatedly in one spot but too flighty (get it?) to sit still for a good shot), wood thrushes, ovenbirds, jays, white-throated sparrows (my “play list” as I stood with manure-eating grin at 1000 mile sign, scanning above for helicopters), unidentified owl cruising about 8-10 feet above forest floor, eight-spotted forester moth (photo, and identified by daughter Alida), stunning Easter Box Turtle discovered by Tea Time and photographed by moi, identified by Alida.

Pileated Woodpecker, April 27, 2023

Eight-Spotted Forester Moth, April 26, 2023

1000 Mile Mark

Circle of Life

My Aunt Monique, who I mentioned last time out, sadly died a few days ago. Thanks to new friend, T-mobile, I received the news on a beautiful day on the AT. She will be missed, but she is at peace after a particularly tough grind for her and her kids. Adieu, Matante.

The next day, or perhaps even later that same day, my friend Jill sent me a photo of her gorgeous daughter and newborn grandson. It’s all about the people.

In Loving Memory of Monique Lemieux Johnson
Gonna be a reunion in Heaven with cards, laughter, and likely gin!

Shout Outs To  

Cathy: I am well, thank you. And thanks for reaching out.

Bobbie and Mitch in Fincastle, VA: Thanks for your kind offer of assistance if needed, and Mitch: that tube of coffee you gave me all those weeks ago did taste like dessert!

Catherine C in Noble, ON -- family mentor (along with dear Carl) and cherished friend to Pam and me, upon learning about my hike last year, said "He's a bloody fool!" Catherine saw what I could not see.

Dave at ATC HQ here in Harpers Ferry: Dave quizzed me and two others on Leave No Trace and granted us our 2023 hang tags and postcards.

Sarah "Rigby" Beeler (2016 Flip-Flopper) Cincinnati, OH: Rigby likely doesn't know this, but our chat on a Canadian Thanksgiving feast chez the Seguin Family (Stratford, ON) got me thinking... me tinks I could do this.

AT Thru Hiker Hang Tag

The ATC Postcard

Trail Names

Sherpa Dave and Raj (greater D.C): Potomac AT club members who do 14 miles every Tuesday. Sherpa Dave hiked the whole thing over a 30 year period! He has hiked almost all of the tallest peaks in each Canadian province and Territory! He wants to go see Churchill, Manitoba soon. I told him my brother-in-law Michael spent a chunk of his childhood in that funky town.

Denise H. from northern Virginia... curious about long distance hiking with a young family and gave me a delicious APPLE; Mark from Missouri… we had a great visit on a nasty day; Cup of Tea from SW England; Dreaded Bohemian, a nurse from Alabama doing a gear shake down and a dope Sponge Bob Square Pants impersonator! Watch him play the wooden tounge drum HERE. You'd make him very happy if you "Like" his video.

Frizzle (beautiful Maine), Gray Eagle (Huntsville, Alabama), Pheasant Clucker (U.K. but currently living in Spain), Rainbow Warrior and her dad Dad Dog (you sound like Sylvester the Cat if you say that out loud) from D.C, and last but not least, Short Rib (Chapel Hill NC, shopping for new trail shoes earlier today here in town). Short Rib heard the choppers from another campsite that same night, so a proof is a proof is proof (can’t believe I just quoted Jean Crétien)*.

* I pledge to continue to quote the late Jerry Clower... but Crétien? Nope.

Dreaded Bohemian, April 26, 2023

Last Word Goes to Me

I was nervous getting back on the Trail a few days ago, but knew I was gaining back some confidence when I completed the Roller Coaster. A hiker, southbound and just starting the Trail, asked me, “How was it, man?” "It was kinda cool,” my reply.

The Roller Coaster, April 26, 2023

Back at it tomorrow morning (May 1st). Mila and Jer S. (Brome, QC): Dr. Mayo's leg is FINE!!!!"

Thanks everyone!

Sponge FOB

   

PS

Rob: I still miss you; do you even remember me?

PPS

A final last word: and a warning that this is full of hidden meanings that should mean something to some Leaf Fans out there. If you don't care about hockey, look away.

So, to Donald S (somewhere in North America), Kevin D. (not the turkey, but a fine gent farming on Matt Cardiff Line in the GBA or Greater Brussels Area, and Brad D. raising pigs and taking names near Fenwick, ON: my Canadien blood got a little bluer and whiter last night, no lie! Big congratulations! I am thrilled... for us and others... And Clancy (RR#1, Heaven): stop gnashing your teeth over this. At long last, it's THEIR TURN!

ENOUGH!!!