On the Catwalk in Carolina

View From CooperRidge Bald Lookout

I am taking a couple of zero
days at Fontana Dam, NC, 166 trail miles from Springer Mountain, GA. I've been hiking my former “home” state since March 17th. North Carolina scenery is stunning!

Some folks I have met over the last week include Bobcat, who came all the way from Ft Wayne, Indiana to Rock Gap to deliver trail magic, Aqua, Phantom, Tamara, Team Iowa, Dorrie and Teardrop, Bucky, Summertime, Fire Walker, Peachfuzz (who wears Hoka shoes… I have a pair of Hokas at home but decided against wearing them on the trail. One noticeable feature is the fluorescent orange uppers and baby blue soles and sides. When my darling Will saw them, he offered, “Well with those things, at least the authorities will be able to find your remains.” That’s my boy!), Giggles who gave me FRESH FRUIT magic, and Pinto...

Trail Closed to Hang Gliders

My bro-in-law, Richard, was adamant I portage a canoe on this trek. I flat-out refused. Last week I saw a Forest Service sign that forbade, among other activities, hang gliding on the trail. No mention of canoes.

I bought a 3rd pair of socks. Lt. Dan said that a grunt who doesn't take care of his feet is a dead grunt. Sound advice. 

Was in a nasty storm at the summit of Standing Indigenous Mt on the 18th. I had a Marilyn Monroe moment when updrafts blew rain up my skirt! Yup, at 61, I got my first (rain) skirt. So there!

All the cool kids have Verizon cell service out here. I have T-Mobile. The "T" must stand for Terrible or Temperamental. Frustrating when you want to reach out to home base and seek details on even the teeniest bits of info you want confirmation on.

Bald Guy on Cheoah Bald

My hat seems to command attention. Have been mistook for a Ranger and an A.T. Ridgerunner. The balds* (mountain feature not hairstyle) are really cool.

On March 21, the Forest Service Personnel stopped all hikers at the summit of Wayah Bald, as they were conducting the Deweese Prescribed Burn. After an hour's wait, we received the "all clear" to carry on. I was a little concerned about the wall of smoke but trudged on, 'cause that’s why I’m here. About 90 minutes later, I came to the burn area… and there were still hotspots ablaze, primarily leaf litter. A bit later I encountered a smoke eater who was monitoring flames. I asked if it was safe to proceed and he said “I reckon you’d be a better judge of that than me.” !!!!!!????? Now, I have been known to lay and light the odd fire, BUT NOT WITH FLAME THROWERS, WALKIE TALKIES, PERSONNEL, AND A FLEET OF CHOPPERS! I really would have liked his perspective on the situation, but as none was forthcoming, on I went. Had to walk like a supermodel on a catwalk in certain sections as both sides of trail were still on fire! 

Walking on the Ridge of a Dinosaur's Back

The section of trail between Wayah and Rufus Morgan has been the sketchiest so far -- top of a ridge, 8 feet wide at the most, 100s of feet shear vertical drop on either side. Hoka terrain for sure.

One young woman, Emily, is travelling alone with her dog. Another dude asked her if her family was concerned. “My dad’s just relieved I’m not still hopping freight trains.”

I have quit instant oatmeal in favour of instant grits. Tastes way better and my pot cleans easier.

Had my best wipeout on Wed 23rd on wet mossy rocks at a turn on a switchback. Fell on my left shoulder, arms pinned underneath me, hands looped thru trekking pole loops, poles trapped beneath me with shifting pack full of wet gear. Took some effort but was eventually able to right myself. 

Toadshade Trillium

Stealth campsites are best, shelters too busy and noisy for my age demographic.

The other day a military aircraft ran at very low altitude, right thru a narrow gap. Kinda startled me as I was getting water from a wee trickle.

First snake sighting: pencil sized Garter-esque specimen. Birdsong on the rise and wildflowers starting to blossom. 

Will close with a nod to ‘Shua, my shuttle driver yesterday here at Fontana. Over the course of a 2 mile drive up (naturally) a winding mountain road, we heard about his benefits package, gum disease, that he cannot consume alcohol in the resort proper with guests but can take it to his room. He went on about all the bikers and sports car enthusiasts who come up here to ride and where they tend to wreck, and that management wants him to morph from shuttle driver (like momma in the Partridge Family) to all-night security dude (Mr Leahy?) with no powers of enforcement... Shua commented, "Ya'll don't say much." Couldn't have gotten a word in edge-wise if we'd wanted!

I must leave you now to organize my food (I have too much), reduce my pack weight some, and work up the nerve to tackle the Great Smoky Mountains National Park tomorrow morning. We are granted a max of 8 days to do the 73 miles, much of which is between 5000 - 6500 feet in elevation, so expect cold, wind, rain, snow, and the wonder of this marvellous Appalachian Trail. Rob, if you can get yerself down here today, I could use some help eating excess food.

Thanks everyone!

Sponge FOB

P.S Had my first shower in 11 days yesterday. If you think that’s disgusting, I can confirm that it really is. Otherwise, it’s just my orange microfibre cloth and mountain streams, all while being as LNT** and responsible as possible.

* Balds are mountain summits covered by native grasses in areas where forest growth would be expected.

** LNT stands for leave no trace. For more information visit: https://lnt.org

Late Bloomers and Trail Magic

I am taking two zero days * (March 15 & 16) in Hiawassee, GA -- where the Serendipity Walk-in Clinic boasts the “best blister clinic in the state.” Sounds about right. I don’t have any blisters 79 miles into my trek (I'm including the approach trail at Amicalola Falls in my totals… most hikers avoid that section because of the “@&)(?!/ stairs)… but I did ‘em, all 604 of 'em! I will return to Dick’s Creek Gap Thursday morning via shuttle to carry on, and could actually cross into NC before the day is done.

Drying Out at the Budget Inn

Waddaya do on a zero day? Walk to the post office to get your resupply box, walk to the coin laundry to flush away 8 days of funk, walk to the pizza joint… dry out your stuff, SHOWER!!!!!!, and otherwise make use of plumbing. Am staying at the Hiawassee Budget Inn. They were not being modest when they said budget!

Grace, my shuttle driver, thru-hiked the A.T. in 2016 upon retiring as sheriff’s deputy in Tampa. Grace told me she likes this gig because it reminds her of work -- she drives around for 12 hours a day picking people up, only “… y’all are happy to see me and I don’t need to cuff ya!” Grace told me Georgia is the third hardest state to hike after New Hampshire and Maine.

The Kentucky Krew

I experienced my second dose of trail magic this morning ** -- a krêpe kourtesy of the Kentucky Krew. This family comes down from south of Lexington KY for about a week or until they run out of food! The crêpe was stuffed with a hotdog and garnished with peanut oil and sriracha! Deeelicious. Plus coffee, fresh fruit, homemade cookies and other treats. Very special and generous people, to put it mildly.

Speaking of people, all kinds of interesting folk. One dude this morning looked like an extra from a Pirates of the Caribbean casting call: filthy (I should talk) dreadlocks shooting off in 13 directions and so drunk he could barely stand. Another hiker actually carried the remains of a 6-pack 3 miles for him! Solo hiker, Late Bloomer, is 71 years young and hobbles like she had a double foot transplant earlier in the day… but she’s doing it just the same.

"Oh, you mean 14 degrees FAHRENHEIT!"

I almost perished in a storm over the weekend… about 14 Fahrenheit (-10 C)

overnight with wind gusts 60 mph. Spent Saturday night doing calisthenics in a mummy bag (all night) and thinking about the different blankets in our home. Nevertheless, I am very lucky to be out here doing this. I have time to have deep thoughts, as well as more shallow ones like: “The next time your neck is itchy, don’t scratch it! Hiking pole in hand hits the trail-side tree with the tip, jabbing the handle of the pole into your neck, just like the time playing hockey when you were very young and you went into the boards with the butt end of your stick jabbing in your midsection...” STUPID, STUPID, STUPID. I don’t think a lick about Covid, but the Ukraine weighs very heavily. No bears yet, too cold for rattlers, and songbirds are few other than juncos, nuthatches, chickadees, and Barred Owls at night. Coyotes yipping this morning. Nothing in leaf yet in canopy or understory but do run thru what I presume are stands of rhododendron on a daily basis. Had a 30-minute chat with Miss Pam earlier today so feel good. Robbie, I miss you but you need to know dogs on the A.T. must carry their own gear. You have it made just where you are, sweet boy.

Signing off,

Sponge FOB  

(Some hikers think my trail name, Father of the Bride, is too long. Others, such as Cyclops (a lookalike for Jack Elam), thinks it isn't "badass" enough and they worry that it'll get shortened it to Bride. I remind 'em "My trail name was pretty much sanctioned by 2 branches of the military," and they back off. Others have taken to calling me Sponge Man because of a sponge strapped to my pack for mopping up condensation on my tent. End result: my two trail names have been mashed into one: Sponge FOB).

Made it to the North Carolina / Georgia State Border at 2:50 PM, March 17

* A zero day is hiker jargon for a day off from hiking.

**At Unicoi Gap, Trail Angel Paul drove from Atlanta GA to set up his grill and prepare cheeseburgers for hikers. After surviving the snow storm, this was pure trail magic!

First Post From the Appalachian Trail

Mushy Preamble:

I’d like to dedicate my little escapade to family and friends, to the guy (hello Moe!) who put this idea in my noodle some 50 yrs ago, to those who looked at me like I was nuts (permission to gloat — I face-planted — y’all may yet be proven correct), to Shawn who didn’t get a chance to chase his dreams, and to all who have supported and encouraged me in all facets of life.
To my kids: Will (the Old Man face planted Day 1) and Alida (my hiking buddy and meal planner)... Candice, Alex, and Jess (BTW you can reverse your undies to the clean side after 3 weeks… after a month is just gross).  Lastly, a word about Pam (…kiss me and smile for me, tell me that you’ll wait for me). My bride has stood solidly behind this trek and has worked her derrière off navigating logistics, iPhones, Covid tests, transportation to Georgia, and telling me it would all come together when I was having my doubts.

Now to the little walk I'm on:

I received my trail name March 9, an A.T. tradition, from Momma Seal and Devil Dog: I am henceforth know as "Father of the Bride", owing to a patch on my pack courtesy of my sister Julie. I was serenaded, not by peepers, but by machine gun fire after lights out my first night on the trail.* Let the fun begin. Peace out Robbie!

Sending this from 4400 feet up on Blood Mountain. This shit is gruelling.

* According to Appalachian Trail Thru-Hikers' Companion 2019, At Hawk Mountain Campsite and Shelter, "Army Rangers from nearby Camp Frank D. Merrill use the area for training exercises and have been spotted all times of the day and night."