On the Catwalk in Carolina

View From CooperRidge Bald Lookout

I am taking a couple of zero
days at Fontana Dam, NC, 166 trail miles from Springer Mountain, GA. I've been hiking my former “home” state since March 17th. North Carolina scenery is stunning!

Some folks I have met over the last week include Bobcat, who came all the way from Ft Wayne, Indiana to Rock Gap to deliver trail magic, Aqua, Phantom, Tamara, Team Iowa, Dorrie and Teardrop, Bucky, Summertime, Fire Walker, Peachfuzz (who wears Hoka shoes… I have a pair of Hokas at home but decided against wearing them on the trail. One noticeable feature is the fluorescent orange uppers and baby blue soles and sides. When my darling Will saw them, he offered, “Well with those things, at least the authorities will be able to find your remains.” That’s my boy!), Giggles who gave me FRESH FRUIT magic, and Pinto...

Trail Closed to Hang Gliders

My bro-in-law, Richard, was adamant I portage a canoe on this trek. I flat-out refused. Last week I saw a Forest Service sign that forbade, among other activities, hang gliding on the trail. No mention of canoes.

I bought a 3rd pair of socks. Lt. Dan said that a grunt who doesn't take care of his feet is a dead grunt. Sound advice. 

Was in a nasty storm at the summit of Standing Indigenous Mt on the 18th. I had a Marilyn Monroe moment when updrafts blew rain up my skirt! Yup, at 61, I got my first (rain) skirt. So there!

All the cool kids have Verizon cell service out here. I have T-Mobile. The "T" must stand for Terrible or Temperamental. Frustrating when you want to reach out to home base and seek details on even the teeniest bits of info you want confirmation on.

Bald Guy on Cheoah Bald

My hat seems to command attention. Have been mistook for a Ranger and an A.T. Ridgerunner. The balds* (mountain feature not hairstyle) are really cool.

On March 21, the Forest Service Personnel stopped all hikers at the summit of Wayah Bald, as they were conducting the Deweese Prescribed Burn. After an hour's wait, we received the "all clear" to carry on. I was a little concerned about the wall of smoke but trudged on, 'cause that’s why I’m here. About 90 minutes later, I came to the burn area… and there were still hotspots ablaze, primarily leaf litter. A bit later I encountered a smoke eater who was monitoring flames. I asked if it was safe to proceed and he said “I reckon you’d be a better judge of that than me.” !!!!!!????? Now, I have been known to lay and light the odd fire, BUT NOT WITH FLAME THROWERS, WALKIE TALKIES, PERSONNEL, AND A FLEET OF CHOPPERS! I really would have liked his perspective on the situation, but as none was forthcoming, on I went. Had to walk like a supermodel on a catwalk in certain sections as both sides of trail were still on fire! 

Walking on the Ridge of a Dinosaur's Back

The section of trail between Wayah and Rufus Morgan has been the sketchiest so far -- top of a ridge, 8 feet wide at the most, 100s of feet shear vertical drop on either side. Hoka terrain for sure.

One young woman, Emily, is travelling alone with her dog. Another dude asked her if her family was concerned. “My dad’s just relieved I’m not still hopping freight trains.”

I have quit instant oatmeal in favour of instant grits. Tastes way better and my pot cleans easier.

Had my best wipeout on Wed 23rd on wet mossy rocks at a turn on a switchback. Fell on my left shoulder, arms pinned underneath me, hands looped thru trekking pole loops, poles trapped beneath me with shifting pack full of wet gear. Took some effort but was eventually able to right myself. 

Toadshade Trillium

Stealth campsites are best, shelters too busy and noisy for my age demographic.

The other day a military aircraft ran at very low altitude, right thru a narrow gap. Kinda startled me as I was getting water from a wee trickle.

First snake sighting: pencil sized Garter-esque specimen. Birdsong on the rise and wildflowers starting to blossom. 

Will close with a nod to ‘Shua, my shuttle driver yesterday here at Fontana. Over the course of a 2 mile drive up (naturally) a winding mountain road, we heard about his benefits package, gum disease, that he cannot consume alcohol in the resort proper with guests but can take it to his room. He went on about all the bikers and sports car enthusiasts who come up here to ride and where they tend to wreck, and that management wants him to morph from shuttle driver (like momma in the Partridge Family) to all-night security dude (Mr Leahy?) with no powers of enforcement... Shua commented, "Ya'll don't say much." Couldn't have gotten a word in edge-wise if we'd wanted!

I must leave you now to organize my food (I have too much), reduce my pack weight some, and work up the nerve to tackle the Great Smoky Mountains National Park tomorrow morning. We are granted a max of 8 days to do the 73 miles, much of which is between 5000 - 6500 feet in elevation, so expect cold, wind, rain, snow, and the wonder of this marvellous Appalachian Trail. Rob, if you can get yerself down here today, I could use some help eating excess food.

Thanks everyone!

Sponge FOB

P.S Had my first shower in 11 days yesterday. If you think that’s disgusting, I can confirm that it really is. Otherwise, it’s just my orange microfibre cloth and mountain streams, all while being as LNT** and responsible as possible.

* Balds are mountain summits covered by native grasses in areas where forest growth would be expected.

** LNT stands for leave no trace. For more information visit: https://lnt.org