April 20, 2023

Hello from Front Royal VA, mile 972 nobo on the AT.

Seeking Solitude not Isolation, April 8, 2023

I hobbled into town on the 18th after 21 days in the mountains... with a bit of an issue. More on that later.

Why the Appalachian Trail? Last year Pam asked me if I was having any spiritual moments out here. I have many, and I suppose it is in the woods where I become spiritual. A few weeks ago at Matt’s Creek, a lovely young couple, having immigrated to the US from China a few years back, asked me, “Why the AT? There are so many beautiful trails to hike in America?” Then on Easter Sunday while eating my lunch on an outcropping about 2000’ above a gorgeous agricultural setting, I had the absolute great fortune of meeting retirees Anne and Cap of Lynchburg VA, their daughter Margaret Anne, and their aged dog Rosic, who other day hikers had mistaken for a bear.

Easter Sunday Vista

We chatted for almost an hour. Margaret Anne is an accomplished hiker in her own right. Among many trails, she's completed most of the 4000’+ peaks in NH, the 100 Mile Wilderness in Maine, and climbed Katahdin, the ever elusive northern terminus of this path. She was curious about my hike and dreams of doing it herself when her life is not as fast paced as it is right now. Cap was most interested in what kind of hike I was having and what I was getting out of it, and was particularly pleased about “the calm that washes over me” when I am totally immersed in this experience. He told me I was after solitude, but not complete isolation. He seemed pleased with that. I thought to myself, “This guy is able to read me like an Archie comic.” A wise man. When we parted, he squeezed my shoulder and said, “You are the true essence of an AT hiker.” Very kind but mostly indicative of our shared values.

After they left, I admit I did think that “essence” has multiple meanings. Why the AT? Both of my parents grew up in small villages in Quebec in what I consider to be the northern foothills of this mountain chain. Camping trips to the White Mountains in NH with my parents and three sisters, with memories of hutsmen (called croo today) hauling 100+ lbs of goods up to the huts along the trail on wooden framed packs! Margaret Anne confirmed to me they still use those frames some 50 yrs later! I am tracing trade routes first carved by indigenous peoples, and later, settlers. Generations later, enhancements had been made by the Civilian Conservation Corps (program to put Americans to work after WWI), and still today by AT club volunteers and the Forest Service. The history is everywhere, with old gravesites, remnants of settlements, battles fought long ago, etc. And the peaks, views, birdsong, forest, flora and fauna -- what a privilege to be here!

An Indigenous Directional Tree?

There have been serendipitous moments from my past, like the time my sister Julie, my dad, and I ran into my Uncle Geoffrey and cousins Catherine and Tom near the top of Mt Washington in NH. Julie and I were perhaps in high school? What my dad did later that day at the foot of the mountain to surprise his sister Monique, who hadn't ventured up to the summit, is family lore (my dear MaTante is the only still living of 9 siblings). It was my Uncle Geoffrey who first told me about something called the Bruce Trail, which he and family were so fond of. Alida and I have done perhaps 150 km of the Bruce Trail, and my friend Colleen is in the late stages of completing all 900 km!! So we long-distance hikers are a tad obsessed with the grind and grandeur of this Appalachian Trail and other incredible footpaths.

Sunrise at Bird's Nest #3, April 16, 2023

Stories for Arthur (you will have to forgive the bodily function nature of most of these tales, little buddy, but you must admit that topic looms large for a guy who will just be 5 months of age when this post is shared):

Rope: I met Rope as I descended The Priest on Good Friday. He was southbound on a very difficult ascent, carrying a 60 lb pack. I was in full rain gear as I had left the summit in a deluge of rain, then ice pellets, then snow. Rope was wearing a cotton T-shirt. He had done most of the trail over a few years when he could earn enough money for food and tequila. He didn’t like going into town. Last year he was in Hiawassee, GA and had enough money for one night in a motel, but there were zero vacancies, so he pitched his tent on the lawn of the courthouse. “That way when the law gave me a citation, I wouldn’t have to go far to pay the fine!” So why “Rope”? Answer: “It’s on account of how I take a dump. I carry this rope. I put the rope thru the center of my roll of toilet paper, run the rope around a tree, then tie it around my waist. Hands free, baby!”

Blackrock Hut: I was up just before sunrise and went to use the privy (ask your dad what that is). Someone was outside shuffling in the leaves and I was mildly annoyed with their impatience. When I opened the door to leave, there was a deer looking right at me not 5 feet away. She was not startled and posed for a few pictures.

Privy Deer at Little Roundtop Mountain, April 13, 2023

David Bohl: David lives in Hawaii and I met him one morning when I stopped to camel [trail lingo meaning to fill-up on water] at a Skyline Drive rest area in the Shenandoah National Forest. We had a great chat that included his love for Bancroft ON. He gave me a craft beer from Texas out of his car cooler. I hauled the thing over 15 miles of ups and downs on an 80 F day, then cooled it that evening in a spring while I soaked my feet. It was very refreshing. BTW we have a standing invite to visit David on the Big Island of Hawaii. One of the things he raved about was living near Pele. I didn’t want to be the guy to break the news to him that Pele died a few months back. Good thing I kept my trap shut. Turns out Pele is an active volcano out there.

Cooling Down at Pinefield Hut, April 12, 2023

Kevin the Turkey: This dude was WAY too habituated to humans but cool just the same. I met Kevin on Blackrock summit. I photographed him from about 40’ away but he was in shade. So he decided to climb the rocks to a point about 5’ from where I sat. I asked him if he cared that I was a tad protein deprived, but he just kept preening and posing.

Kevin the Turkey, April 12, 2023

The Mouse: Again in a privy, but this time at Byrd’s Nest #3 hut, I found myself there in darkness. There was a rustling beside me which I ignored. When I went to leave and opened the door, I noticed an empty 20 litre pail on the floor, with a deer mouse inside. It had a look of exasperation on its little deermouse face, so I tipped the bucket and let her go. Hope it was a learning experience for her.

Story for Robbie (my amazing dog):  On April 15, I met 2 day hiker uprights walking with their beautiful Basset Hound. We stopped to visit and the man said to the hound, “What on earth are you chewing on now?” The woman and I responded simultaneously, “A rock”. “No he ain’t!" said the man. Then he fished in the dog’s mouth and eventually pulled out... a rock. I am pretty certain the hound, the woman, and I all looked at the man thinking… idiot.

Other stuff: My fuel canister ran empty April 8, which is odd because it was full when I left home and last year, in much colder weather, I was getting 16-18 days out of one. One of the necessities out here is adaptation. So I did. All my meals are cold soaks now and they taste quite good. My favourite breakfast is 2 cups water, 2 packs instant breakfast, 3 scoops powdered milk, I scoop cocoa, 1 scoop instant coffee, one squeeze olive oil, and whatever dried leaf remnants that make their way in (free fibre).

Cold Soak Lunch Prep

Shenandoah National Forest: I have completed the 100 or so miles and must admit I won’t miss it. The forest consist primarily of oaks and hickories. There are very few conifers, in stark contrast to the trail from Georgia to Rockfish Gap just south of Shenandoah. Extreme weather events, fire, disease and likely pollution have hammered the canopy, in my estimation. Skyline Drive, a tourist route through the park, is forever present. I crossed it 20 or 30 times as the trail weaves a similar trajectory. I realize that the greatest population density in the US starts just about an hour's drive to the east. I knew it would be different from the remoteness down south, and what I hope to experience later in VT, NH, and Maine. The weather has been hot and sunny, and the leaf canopy is only just emerging, so there is no “Green Tunnel” yet.

Evidence of Past Extreme Weather Event, Three Ridges, Apr. 9, 2023

Vista with Skyline Drive in the Foreground, April 17 2023

I had a bizarre encounter April 15 as I passed thru the property of Skyland, a mountain resort. The AT shares a side trail for about half a mile with an approach trail to a vista called Stony Man. As I walked it, all of a sudden came a rush of little girls and women in party dresses and ball gowns, and photographers… all reeking of body wash, shampoo, perfume, etc. After 19 days in the woods, it was a jolt, but amusing just the same. Not sure what they thought of me. On the upside, there are occasional trash cans and water hydrants, and Waysides (rest areas that typically offer services including food and groceries). I was able to top up my food supply at Big Meadows, one of the few Waysides open this early in the season.

People/Trail Names: Brian Shirley, a retired forester (Elk Mtn VA); Rope (Ft Worth TX); Anne & Cap (Lynchburg VA) & Margaret Anne (Charlottesville VA); Hipster (Reading PA -- a sobo hiker trying to find happiness again after some difficult times); Colin (TN) & Amily (QC!!!) --  I passed this couple on a crossing on Skyline Drive and noticed Quebec plates so I said “Salut Québec" as I passed. Colin looked confused but Amily’s face lit up! We had a nice visit and then they had to return home 'cause Colin forgot his guitar, but Amily had packed her ukulele for the day hike); Lobster (DC) and Poptart (VA); R.P from Mass., a few years my senior. R.P. has done about 1100 miles over a few years. His tail name is his late son’s initials… they were supposed to do the AT together until tragedy struck. “He’s been with me every step,” he said, patting his thigh pocket where he keeps his son’s ashes (we both welled up at that point); a Scout troop and leaders from Delaware. After a long discussion at Thornton Gap where they all got off trail to go home, one of the leaders, originally from Massena, NY, said, “Go Leafs!" I said, “Not a chance, I am a Canadiens fan by birthright,” to which he replied, “Habs, yuk!!”; Tiffany (WV) who was out for the day with real cameras… we had great conversation as she wanted to know all about my experiences. She then asked if she could take my photo, so I obliged. It took 3 attempts before she was satisfied. She said it was all about lighting but I knew the truth... it’s this face I wear! Asset (Lancaster PA); Violet (VA) who has 7 “thrus” on her resumé, currently guides in Shenandoah, and was absolutely thrilled I was trying to get to Maine. She threw her arms in the air and let out a “YEAAAHHHH” and gave me a giant chocolate bar! Six Guys From Jersey out doing a section hike: “Pennsylvania is really rocky!” they warned… So I have been told, countless times. And lastly Leaf Cutter and Question Mark from just outside Philly, who asked if they could follow the blog.

Blackrock, April 12, 2023

Canuck requires his own paragraph. I met Canuck at Byrd’s nest #3 on April 15. It was him, moi, and the Delaware Scouts. It started to rain after each had set up our tents and we met at the bear box where each was stashing food for the night. He gave me his trail name and I gave him mine, then told him I was a canuck too. We agreed to meet if the rain subsided (which it did about 30 minutes later) but Canuck had fallen asleep and slept 14 hours straight! Canuck lives on Vancouver Island and is a retired teacher and principal, doing the second 700 mile instalment of a 3 year project. He told me he was born in Stratford, ON but moved shortly after. Pretty epic, right? That is nuthin’ kids. Hold on to y’all’s britches before reading on and PAY CLOSE ATTENTION any of you MFS people who might be reading this!!! The next morning we chatted more and exchanged phone #s, etc. Then he began quizzing me about Ontario because he had lost touch with much of his family. Then it got bizarre. He gave me his last name and then asked me about a certain wee community near the French River, where all his family is rooted. I am being vague to protect a certain young man’s privacy. Yo MFSers! Remember a certain ZP, whom many of us guided and nurtured for all those years? Canuck has since confirmed to me, after reaching out to his brother, that the bro is ZP’s stepfather! Kinda blew me away, so it did.

New critters not previously encountered this year: whippoorwills, white throated sparrows (“Oh Canada, canada, canada” sounding song), grey rat snake, ring necked snake, woodcock, brown thrasher, mockingbird, cardinals, jays, plus others I can’t identify.

Northbound Black Rat Snake, April 16, 2023

Quotable Quotes: They Said It: “Hey Reece, can I borrow your tick key?” And this beaut from two little girls as they led a group of adults and dogs on a day hike April 15 near Crusher Ridge Side Trail: Girl #1: “So like my dad is obsessed with knives. He bought like three just the other day. So I guess you could say he’s responsible for that knife episode.” Girl # 2: “Ya, that makes sense."

My Little Issue: I am stalled here in Front Royal with a bum leg. I had some ankle pain 10 days ago after a steep descent into McCormick Gap but didn’t think much of it. Over the course of the next few days, the pain got worse and migrated up towards my calf, along with substantial swelling. It intensified over the next few days. Leaving Byrd’s Nest on April 16, I was pretty sure my right leg had quit the trail on me but what ya gonna do, call a cab? So on I trudged, having exhausted my supply of vitamin I (ibuprofen in hikerspeak). When I got to Front Royal, I booked three nights in this dive motel because I knew I had to deal with it. April 20 was about 10 hours of appointments, waiting rooms, and scans. Pam and I were each thinking stress fracture, but the nurse practitioner was also thinking blood clot. Luckily all tests negative, which is most positive. Practitioner says rest, ice, compression, elevation, and some walking for at least a week, then resume hike if fully recovered. If not, she recommended that I go home and see an orthopaedic specialist. So we’ll see what happens… and I will decide Monday 24th. My heart wants to get back on the trail NOW but my carcass ain’t having it. No regrets. I have a stupendous family and life to go back to whether it be sooner or later.

Damn Hot and Water Deprived, April 16, 2023

I apologise a bit for a long winded post but after all, I find myself with lots of time all of a sudden. Thanks for your time and all your encouraging messages… unfortunately none of which I am able to respond to via the blog but I read them all!

Marooned in Front Royal,

Stump FOB